De Bethune DB28 MAXICHRONO DB28MCRZN

Perhaps due to the prevalent aesthetic of the mid-2000s, De Bethune felt compelled to add a sports replica watches for sale to the lineup. It started with DB20 GMT, followed by DB22 and then DB24, introducing new case shapes. They are large 48mm watches with screw down crowns and 200m water resistance.

Powering the watch is De Bethune's first self-winding caliber 2024. It has a six-day reserve and features another new balance wheel construction. Inside is a hairspring that uses a combination of beryllium and copper to help improve accuracy and make the arrangement more shock-resistant. Winding the movement is another bimetallic device, the titanium arm of the winding rotor giving way to a platinum mass. On top of the bearing, protecting the wide-armed winding rotor from impact, is a crown of four clusters of industrial rubies, another De Bethune design.

At the peak of production between 2011 and 2015, De Bethune employed 60 watchmakers, designers, engineers, and skilled polishers and decorators. For most of its history, however, the brand only made about half as many. "Twelve watchmakers and mechanics, two prototype watchmakers, eight mechanics, two pre-assemblers, seven decorators, [and] three builders, at last count," Flageollet said. This flexibility, combined with its in-house capabilities, has enabled it to consistently bring to market a staggering number of innovations, movements and watches throughout most of its 20-year history.replica best watches

The DB21 Maxichrono is one such innovative product. It debuted in 2006, reimagining the construction of a chronograph. Instead of the traditional layout featuring sub-dials, the Maxichrono uses a coaxial mounting arrangement – with all five hands (three for the chronograph and two for the time) originating from a central point on the dial. The chronograph's time scales are set in concentric circles—the outermost one tracks seconds; the one from that, minutes; and the innermost one records the elapse of up to 24 hours. Operated by a single pusher at 6 o'clock, it is arguably the simpler setup on the dial side, but is based on an extremely complex movement architecture.

The popularity of the DB21 Maxichrono meant that De Bethune reissued the watch in 2019 - albeit in a very limited run of 10 - with an upgraded movement. The coaxially mounted chronograph function is now controlled by the new De Bethune 'absolute clutch', in which three different clutches operate independent systems, each controlling an elapsed time counter. It is as complex and accurate as the rest of the movement, and went on to appear in several De Bethune collections (DB28 and DB29) over the years.

In 2007, De Bethune replica best watches added another pillar to its collection - the DB25. It's a surprisingly minimalist design that doesn't have many design flourishes that set it apart even at this early stage in the brand's history. It was originally equipped with a 40mm self-winding movement and a 44m manual winding movement, and the case was made of various precious metals and titanium. It even has fixed (albeit cutout) lugs, suggesting that Zanetta is targeting the series at audiophiles with more traditional preferences.

The gap between function and art is closing For many, the ultimate iteration of the DB25 series is the Zodiac Tourbillon. The 20-piece limited edition launched in 2015 amply demonstrates that the tourbillon is not the main course. The 2019 movement can be seen by flipping over the exhibition case back, revealing an additional solid gold escape wheel mounted on the bridge. A set of trays 'locks' and 'unlocks' it, giving the movement its signature seconde morte or deadbeat seconds complication.

The dial aspect is expected to be rich. Along with the alluring guilloché and solid gold hands, a ring in hot blue titanium is inlaid with the 12 zodiac symbols representing each hour of the day. Each of the 20 solid gold medals is hand-engraved in-house by master engraver Michèle Rothen.

Over the years, Rothen's steady hands have etched and sculpted De Bethune's otherworldly Maestri'Art collections as well as unique commissions. From the faithful reproduction of the patron's alma mater entrance engraved on the movement, to the bas-relief depiction of the Chinese Imperial Gardens on the solid gold dial, the Maestri'Art collection allows for a level of customization that, like Rothen's work, knows no bounds.replica watches cheap

time in the sun de bethune In 2011, the one-year-old DB28 won the highest award at the Grand Prix de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva, the prestigious d'Or. Not only is it filled with many of the maker's signature innovations, but it's also visually fresh. The open dial showcases the hand-wound caliber 2115, which is equipped with the circular balance previously seen on the DW1. The chapter ring features hand-set cabochons, and the spherical moon phase display is at 6 o'clock. While seen before in the DB21 Maxchrono (and earlier in the DW2), coupled with the DB28's aggressive design, this line would make floating lugs De Bethune's calling card.

The DB28 has since become the vehicle for many of De Bethune's experiments. As Kind of Blue, it features a fully thermally blued titanium case - a first in watchmaking. The same titanium case has been treated with brief but precise bursts of heat, turning it into a very unusual and warm shade of yellow. The DB28 features De Bethune's Tourbillon, Maxichrono and Jumping Hour complications. However, the brand's inspired solution to the dial legibility issue in its second-pass sports watch needs closer examination.

In the case of the DB28 GS Grand Bleu and DB28 GS Yellow Submarine (another insight into Flageollet's musical taste), there are four LED lights that don't rely on batteries. This arrangement works in much the same way as a Grande Sonnerie complication – on demand, at the touch of a button, energy is drawn from the mainspring barrel to wind the dynamo, which then powers the four lights , to illuminate the dial. In the first half of 2022, De Bethune unveiled the DB28 John Player Special, a name that apparently refers to the Lotus F1 cars of the 1970s.

De Bethune was successful again at the 2014 and 2018 GPHGs. It won the Chronograph Award for the second time, with the DB29 Tourbillion Maxichrono. It features an Absolute Clutch mechanism in rose gold, with a hunter caseback revealing the intricate movement and tourbillon. Four years later, the DB25 Starry Varius Chronomètre Tourbillon won the grand chronograph at the competition. The movement features a De Bethune tourbillon and a jumping seconds complication with a maximum deviation of +1 second per day.replica watches cheap

Jacques has often spoken of how De Bethune's capital-intensive model of constant research and small annual production of watches (self-limited to 150 over the past few years) puts pressure on the manufacturer's books. Jacques had said at the time that the new capital infusion that the arrangement would bring would give Flageollet the freedom of direction that led him to de Bethune in the first place. “I think De Bethune has always stayed true to itself and never tried to be like any other watch brand, or go in a direction that wasn’t part of its identity,” he told us. "Denis Flageollet is a genius and a hidden gem in the world of horology. I trust him and everything he has done for De Bethune."

Then, in a surprising development, in August 2021, the manufacturer landed a new investor — luxury pre-owned watch retailer WatchBox acquired a majority stake in the brand.

The new arrangement appears to have been reflected in increased production numbers. De Bethune plans to increase production to 230 watches, Flageollet said, with further increases to come. "[We] do [plan] to increase [production], but only if we can maintain the authenticity and quality of De Bethune," he said.

De Bethune has always represented an undiscovered secret on the secondary market. Part of the reason may be a lack of visibility for the brand's past and present achievements. “There is actually very little overlap between laudable watch companies and well-known watch companies,” says Kiran Shekar. "I think it comes down to the difficulty of finding reliable information. My consulting clients talk to me about how they genuinely want to know more, because for them it's not just the pursuit of a particular piece of work, it's the quest for a deep understanding. Pursuit that will make them well-informed collectors... I know years of intensive research and travel to get the knowledge I currently have, I understand this is not feasible for most collectors. "

Mathieu Ruffat, an associate watch specialist at Christie's in Geneva, said the pandemic seemed to make up for that to some extent. "Suddenly, people have time to learn, to fully appreciate the work of some of these independent watchmakers," he added. "With this knowledge, renewed appreciation can be seen in the prices of some pieces by independent labels, including De Bethune, which are currently trading."best replica watches

According to Pierre Jacques, this is already reflected in the rise in orders. “Looking at the trajectory of the business over the past 24 months, there has been a significant increase in interest in freestanding timepieces as well as unique and collectible timepieces,” he said. "In just a few months, our lead time has been reduced from four months to almost two years. For us, the growth is mainly due to increased demand for exclusive products."

Shekar believes that as brand storytelling increases, prices are bound to rise. This is simply because "the early productions of DB [DB1 to DB10] were minuscule compared to the early works of FP Journe", he said.

Before Ruffat spoke to us, he spoke to a longtime De Bethune collector, trying to understand what attracts the brand's typical clientele. Of course, there are practical things like floating lugs for improved wear resistance, an attractive dial-side look, constant innovation in movement construction, and almost endless opportunities for customization. However, the real draw, says Ruffat, is the invisible warmth that comes with having the opportunity to interact with one of the most accomplished watchmakers alive.

De Bethune is unique in many ways, even in the world of independents. Its technical operations are led by Flageollet, a watchmaker who prefers to let the science speak for itself, opting for the smallest brands on the dials of his creations, and who has been known to spend most of his free time in a yurt in the middle Through the woods on the Jura Plateau. We recently visited the manufacturing facility in L'Auberson, with its CNC machines and CAD work, it felt more like a laboratory than a traditional workshop, a true reflection of the watchmaking industry Flageollet championed.

After all, it’s now its 20th anniversary for a brand that has a library of nearly 30 movements and patented balances more than a brand several times its age. In an industry often held hostage to tradition, Flageollet took a scientific approach, exploring all avenues, from hairsprings to tourbillons, in pursuit of improved timekeeping. That's before getting to the kind of results Flageollet achieves by applying precise heat to materials like titanium. Each watch is impressive, but viewing these innovations in conjunction with the brand's achievements and the watchmaker's history only deepens the appreciation of De Bethune.Replica De Bethune Dream